Barbara Heath — Jeweller to the lost

Wed 10 Sep 2025

Brisbane artist Barbara Heath considers herself a 'jeweller to the lost', she feels that people are found only when they locate their perfect jewel, therefore her quest is to create imaginative forms that speak to people. Jewellery for Heath is very much concerned with sending, receiving and deciphering messages.

Heath as maker has the first intimate connection with an object which has embarked on its voyage — soon others will be drawn along on its charismatic trail. A long term interest has been the subliminal messages conveyed by the wearing of jewellery.

Watch | Barbara Heath discusses her jewellery

The oversized and whimsical ‘babies’ 1989 brooch demands a relationship between object and wearer — and through image reflection — the mirror also requires the participation of the viewer. Featuring contrasting materials, adding texture and depth, the work brings together anodised aluminium, convex mirror, and miniature sterling silver figures placed at the four points of the compass, this jewel from a series that references life's beginning and end.

Brooch, 'babies' 1989

Pyramid brooch 1993 in 18ct gold and Chinese freshwater pearls, alludes to Arabian imagery and ornamentation. Heath has created a tension between the organic fragility of the pearls and the hard, geometric, gold grid. The pearls appear to float freely in space whilst simultaneously trapped by the grid. Characteristic of Heath's work is the element of surprise as hidden aspects of the piece become apparent on close inspection, encouraging you to look at it from different angles — the rigidity of the grid is softened by a sinuous line created by glimpsed sections of the pearls.

Heath has a love of art history, architecture and design and explores these through craftsmanship, often using symmetry and intricate geometric patterns. Her Mashrabiya-inspired lattice brooch 1993-94 design uses a Middle Eastern architectural geometric style often found on windows. Mashrabiya describes a traditional decorative screen that defines a discrete boundary between the private and the public. Permitting light and casting shadows, the architectural veil speaks of the sensual, the precious and that which is to be concealed.

Pyramid brooch 1993

Mashrabia-inspired lattice brooch 1993-94

Heath’s brooches Wryneck, Hawk, and Skylark explore how birds can represent our needs and desires. These are modern manifestations of a very traditional brooch form, both in Europe and Australia. The artist has drawn on historical meanings associated with gemstones to pair each bird with a stone, intended to infuse the wearer with certain qualities. Birds are above all messengers and are an ideal metaphor for Heath, whose jewellery is very much concerned with messages.

The Wryneck’s diamond encourages clarity of mind and body, while the spinel is said to increase physical vitality and the balancing of emotions. For the Hawk, Heath chose the sapphire, said to bring mental clarity and heightened perception to the wearer. With the Skylark, the ruby represents the opening of the heart and the promotion of love, while the pearls are symbols for wisdom and sincerity. Each choice Heath has made creates a particular message that acts as a charm to protect and infuse the wearer with certain qualities.

Wryneck 1999

Hawk 1999

Skylark 2005

Each of these jewels transforms the familiar into something unexpected. Known for collaborating with artists, engineers and fabricators, Heath’s designs are a unique blend of tradition and innovation. Her works have a distinctive style and she has successfully integrated the diametrically opposed practices of the art jeweller with elements drawn from the commercial jeweller.

View Barbara Heath’s jewellery in 'Wonderstruck' at the Gallery of Modern Art or delve into the captivating works on display with our weekly highlights.

Wonderstruck
28 June – 6 October 2025
Gallery of Modern Art
Gallery 1.1 (The Fairfax Gallery), Gallery 1.2 & Gallery 1.3 (Eric and Marion Taylor Gallery)
Brisbane, Australia
Free entry